To start off our preview of our incoming collections after what has been a lot of water under the bridge, I give you Stephan Schneider for Autumn-Winter 2012. The collection has main focus on bridging a theme of carpets and their arabesque ornaments with the designer’s understated interpretation of menswear.
“From Rugs To Riches” seems to play out a fantasy of a 19th century orientalist who suddenly has access to the wardrobe of a 21st century man living in Antwep, ripe with delicacies of fine-tuned fabrics and high-quality tailored coats and suits. In a way, some of the pieces and their ethnic nature are slightly reminiscent of fellow Belgian designer Dries Van Noten’s work in the 1980′s.
The Stephan Schneider collection usually comprises of several different “families” that are like small capsule collections with overcoats, jackets, trousers, knits, cardigans, pullovers, jersey items and scarves. All of the pieces, which are very similar to one another, are executed around the main theme of the collection, but with variations in color scheme and material work true to their family.
I guess the most interesting take on the rug theme is this poncho made of intarsia knit with carpet like ornamentation. This piece also comes in a flame orange seen at the end of this post.
The same knit pattern is repeated on several items like the cardigan below.
Of course it wouldn’t be a Stephan Schneider collection without a nod towards 1990′s minimalism, something the designer has stayed true to since the beginning of his career.
The details and the construction are always wonderful and something one needs to see up-close. All finishes are hand-made
The designer is a master of quirky but subtle detail, just like the knit back on the leg of these sublime trousers.
Or this shirt with a padded front.
The fabric used comes with a faint print of “ombre blotches” that give the garment a slightly worn look.
All of the textiles like the wools on the coats, the knitwear or the alpaca mix fabric on this pullover are designed in-house.
The lookbook is on-point with the identity of the collection: romanticism and rich detailing clash with a refined and unostentatious take on classic and nearly stale menswear staples.
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