While being the largest city in Finland, on a global scale Helsinki is a relatively small city with about 600,000 inhabitants.  It is the capital of Finland, a country where, just like a Brit once noted to me without ever even having visited, “everybody knows everybody”. While a bit of a far fetch as a generalixation, this couldn’t be more true about Helsinki’s crowd of people who work in the creative and fashion industries.

When their bankruptcy began to seem imminent in the end of 2012, the designers of Minni f. Ronya Anne Törnroos and Minni Suova made a plan – perhaps to avoid all the drama of what could have been endless gossip and rumor in our coastal town – and contacted the Design Museum of Helsinki to host an exhibition on the subject. Located in the hall of the 19th century building, the exhibition “Konkurssi Bankruptcy” opens to the public today May 22nd and features illustrations by Minni Suova, photography, art installations, video installations and a collection deemed to be their final work as Minni f. Ronya.

News of the banktruptcy broke out on Facebook about a month before the opening, when Minni f. Ronya bluntly opened a Facebook page called “Konkurssi” (Finnish for bankruptcy). The visual content of the page was very out of tune with what all of us had learned to expect from the two designers: there were no dream like visions of cool and beautiful young women wearing clothes with luxurious materials, surreal prints and perfectly crafted detailing, but instead a burning dress from their debut Autumn-Winter 2011 collection. A video showing the same dress being burned to literally nothing was also released at the same time. The video didn’t give any answers relating to what was actually going on, and whether the bankruptcy was real or if it was a gimmick to market a new collection. It was an explicitly aggressive and dark move from Minni f. Ronya and initially made you think whether the designers had turned their back on the brand they created once it had become obvious they couldn’t save the company from a financial ruin.

Before the opening of the Konkurssi Bankruptcy exhibition yesterday, a panel discussion was held on the subject of bankruptcies in the field of fashion in Finland and foremost among young local independent labels. The panel included professionals from other brands, retailers, fashion magazines, trade organizations, Aalto university and Anne Törnroos and Minni Suova themselves. Just minutes into the discussion, it began to be clear that the exhibition was Minni f. Ronya’s informative way of telling about the company’s bankruptcy and things behind it, but also an expressive way of going that would feature new work created entirely for it – a swan song of sorts. The designers of Minni f. Ronya themselves stated that the exhibition is not the end but a start for something new. This didn’t really come through in the nature of the Konkurssi premarketing visualization and the video, as based on those, one could have expected an overexpressed and bitter disclosure for the brand, but actually what was told and shown by Minni f. Ronya was a heartfelt, open and brave exposure to a very current issue. Very unlike the destructive vision of burning dress, the Konkurssi Bankruptcy exhibition could also mark a new meaning to all four collections Minni f. Ronya created during their brief yet significant lifespan, some of which are still available in our e-store. If you have no plans for seeing the exhibition for shedding some light on the subject of bankruptcies, I suggest you go there to at least see the clothes.

What could have been. Minni f. Ronya’s last collection of unique garments shows a more fragmented and deconstructed vision of womenswear than in their earlier work.

The last collection features sportswear inspired pieces and bursts of unexpected and refined color combinations in soft knits and printed garments.

Osma Harvilahti shot these images for the collection titled “New Beginning”.

We’re fine. Four Minni Suova illustrations for iconic fashion magazines Vogue, Love Magazine, Dazed & Confused and I-D each featuring a look from one of Minni f. Ronya’s four ready to wear collections on their cover. While the cover photos are propably just every starting brand’s career aspirations, the magazine headlines hint of the irony of keeping up appearances and in tune with the fashion world while not maybe doing so well financially.

The most straightforward part of the exhibition: framed invoices and printed emails speak an uneasy truth about the everyday life of a young fashion brand.

Minni f. Ronya Konkurssi Exhibition runs from May 22nd until June 30th in Design Museum. Address Korkeavuorenkatu 23, 00130 Helsinki.

Pieces from Minni f. Ronya collections from Spring-Summer 2012 and Autumn-Winter 2012 are available at Acolyth e-store and Helsinki store.

Konkurssi video and photography Noora Lehtovuori.

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Pre Helsinki is a new Finnish fashion event organized by Finnish designers and professional from various fields of fashion. Pre Helsinki is about discussing, exploring and discovering the new possibilities and boundaries of fashion. The event will be organized in 22nd–25th of May 2013 for the first time and the programme consists of fashion shows and presentations, seminars and talks, as well as parties and visits to designers’ ateliers.

The programme will be available online at beginning of May 2013. (see the programme here)

Finnish fashion today stands up to international comparison. The industry deserves promoting, but this calls for support as well as new types of events and practices.

Pre Helsinki is neither a traditional sales event, nor a fashion week. The focus of Pre Helsinki is on promoting the internationalization and networking of designers and fashion brands and to discuss the new borderlines of fashion.

Thursday 23.05.13 | 20.00 Fashion Squat Party and Presentation by ensæmble, Siloa & Mook, Sasu Kauppi and Lepokorpi

Address: Tulli- ja Pakkahuone, Katajanokanlaituri 5, Helsinki

Tickets: 5eur from Acolyth Store, Iso Roobertinkatu 40, Helsinki

As part of Pre Helsinki official programme, four emerging fashion brands Sasu Kauppi, ensæmble, Lepokorpi and Siloa & Mook will take over an Old Customs Warehouse to present their latest collections.

More about Pre Helsinki coming soon. Lepokorpi AW13 lookbook image & Sasu Kauppi AW13 lookbook image courtesy of the designers.

Pre Helsinki Fashion Squat Party and presentation ensæmble, Siloa & Mook, Sasu Kauppi and Saara Lepokorpi

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Kauppojen Yö & Late Night Shopping 16.5. Acolyth Open House

On 16th of May we will celebrate our one year old Acolyth Helsinki Store. As part of Kauppojen Yö (the night of shops) and the Late Night Shopping event organized by Design District in Helsinki, we will hold an OPEN HOUSE at the store. All SS13 men’s and women’s collections will then be on display both in the e-store and the physical Helsinki store, where the party takes place.

Join us for a night of SS13 fashion, drinks and music taken care of by our own dj. We will have exclusive discounts on new arrivals, older seasons and especially the following designers, our stars for SS13 season:

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON | DANIEL PALILLO | KIDDA CHRISTOPHER SHANNON | MARIOS | NHU DUONG | ODEUR | SASU KAUPPI | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER | TERHI PÖLKKI

The address is Iso Roobertinkatu 40. The event starts at 6PM and ends at 9.

Please join the event on Facebook. Read more about Kauppojen Yö on IhanaHelsinki website.

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Sasu Kauppi is not everyman’s designer by any means. This is evident in where his work lies in both the international market and also the fashion field of his home country Finland. Fashion and commerce wise it is a very unbeaten path: Sasu Kauppi uses a lot of raw edge finishing, over-sized shapes, patterns with exaggerated lines, bright colors, plays with material texture by alternating the right and wrong side of jerseys and fabrics. Kauppi has also developed a stitch that make the clothes look hand sewn. His signature style is applying the stitch in a color that contrasts with the main material, making the effect stand out even more. All in all Kauppi’s collection is a case of purposeful work that has led the designer to create a style that is unique and niched, but also frowned upon by some. One could even say that Kauppi has reached the definition of l’enfant terrible in his home country, even though that was hardly the intention of the designer. While his clothes might be easy to wisecrack at, Kauppi proposes a strong vision of how to construct a contemporary unisex collection, that also comments on the interplay between the aesthetic and the unaesthetic in fashion.

Neglect towards the ideals of the mainstream remains one of the core values of Sasu Kauppi‘s work. The designer ‘s collections are sometimes quite autobiographical and in his SS13 collection 24 Hour Party People Kauppi draws inspiration from the club scene of his hometown Helsinki during his formative years. Very much an image of the minds and bodily movements of non-stop, full on clubbers and ravers, the collection and the garments in it are raw, strained and distorted.

We have a selection of Sasu Kauppi SS13 clothing listed below. All shirts have been made in Finland in the designer’s studio. The collection is now available in the Helsinki store and e-store.

SASU KAUPPI | PANELLED SHIRT

This Sasu Kauppi shirt has been made of long, narrow panels of light grey loopback jersey and black polyester crushed velvet jersey. The panels have been compiled so that both sides of the grey loopback jersey are on the right side. All of the panels have been sewn with a black overlocking that creates a stitch on the right side that looks as if it is handsewn. The overlocking has stretched some of the panels, causing the lower front of the garment to warp slightly. Material 100% polyester and 100% cotton. Colors melange grey and black. Made in Finland.

SASU KAUPPI SS13 | PANELLED TOP

This Sasu Kauppi top has been made of long, narrow panels of light grey loopback jersey and black polyester crushed velvet jersey. The panels have been compiled so that both sides of the grey loopback jersey are on the right side. All of the panels have been sewn with a black overlocking that creates a stitch on the right side that looks as if it is handsewn. The overlocking has stretched some of the panels, causing the lower front of the garment to warp slightly. Material 100% polyester and 100% cotton. Colors melange grey and black. Made in Finland.

SASU KAUPPI SS13 | T-SHIRT HOODIE WITH ACRYLIC SLAB

This Sasu Kauppi hoodie has been made of light grey loopback jersey. The intrinsic feature of this garment is the large see-through acrylic slab that covers a large hole in the center front with black draw string. The hole has been finished with a mesh lining. The hem and sleeve ends have been finished with a raw edge. Material 100% polyester and 100% cotton. Colors melange grey and black. Made in Finland.

Sasu Kauppi usually uses a strong narrative in his lookbook to bring out the collection inspiration. For SS12 the storyline was about a Haight-Ashbury couple wandering in a park and the AW12 collection “This Is Finland” lookbook meshed youthful angst with the masculinity of ice hockey. And what a narrative it is for SS13, shot by the photographer Aava Anttinen. Images below:

All lookbook images courtesy of Sasu Kauppi. Photography Aava Anttinen.

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Sometimes you see collections that shake all your conceptions of what new, young labels are and should be about. When you start your own label, it is more than likely that, regardless of earlier experience or training, you are doing something for the first time and still learning basic steps of production, marketing, etc., all the while being on a tight budget and short on staff. On top of this, there is the never ending pressure from the market: will consumers value your brand enough to use money on it, does the product correspond with the customers’ expectations for the price and the brand and so on. While many new designers’ main priority is to set a unique style or a look to a collection, because, let’s face it, this is usually the thing that can get you noticed when you are starting out, not enough many look to how well the end product is made and what is the actual life span of that product after it has passed its possible affectation for that season.

It is refreshing to see clothes from young labels that can be dealt with as products in their own right, and not just part of a fad, a wider scheme of a collection or self-gratification of the designer or designers. This can be said of the new Swedish brand COMMON. Their collections are a continuos storyline of what lies behind the clothes, but an inspiration or a mood never becomes the definition of a garment. We went to view their AW13 collection during Copenhagen fashion week and felt in love with their approach on menswear, which grasps the idea that a menswear label should first and foremost be a purveyour of long-lived clothes and mixes this with a very contemporary brand identity aiming for the global market.

Looking at the lookbook and editorial images, it is not hard to conclude COMMON as being from Sweden. This is somehow apparent in the styling and how the clothes are cut and the looks compiled. Scandinavian minimalism is something that surely has been on the tip of everyone’s tongues for the past five years. You need to look no further than about just every catwalk or editorial right now, what prevails is an understated presentation, Scandinavian looking casting and a clean, restrained look. What COMMON stands for seems to, however, be more than just a neat and polished Swedish label that retains this. COMMON cross-references influences from countercultures, traditional & tailored menswear and utility wear and distills it into a classic, contemporary and urban formula of menswear that screams sartorial wit all the while avoiding cliches. What’s best is that the clothes in the AW13 collection can be surveyed as pieces in their own right (really well-designed, really well-made pieces to be exact) and not just as a part of a bigger whole or a certain look, something which makes COMMON a truly exceptional brand amongst its Swedish and Nordic peers.

In their own words:

“For AW13 COMMON explores the core and foundation of the brand, its identity and DNA. They dig deep in their Scandinavian heritage of minimal monochrome aesthetics and mix it with loud and bold print that has come to define COMMON. Key pieces are developed from the AW12 blueprint, but put in the context of this season’s graphic print and monochrome colours. A bomber jacket in a dense mix of alpaca and virgin wool comes in monochrome tones of grey and black. A slim cut double-breasted suit in a pixelated wool reinforce COMMON’s dedication to perfecting classic wardrobe staples. For this season COMMON has complimented the collection with strong utility inspired knitwear in merino wool.”

COMMON collection will be available through Acolyth e-store next fall. More information about the brand coming soon.

COMMON AW13 lookbook & editorial  images courtesy of COMMON.

Photography: Patrick Lindblom

Stylist: Andrej Skok

Make-up & Hair: Daniel Kolaric

Model: Matthew Bell @ Elite London

Please order our newsletter to be updated for AW13 new arrivals.

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All lookbook images are also up in Acolyth e-store women’s portfolio, which can be seen here.

LOOK 1: STEPHAN SCHNEIDER CARDIGAN CAN | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER DRESS VERTICAL | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER BLUE STOLE COATING | TERHI PÖLKKI OSCAR FLATS

LOOK 2: DANIEL PALILLO DRUNK KNIT SWEATER

LOOK 3: DANIEL PALILLO DRUNK KNIT SWEATER | SAARA LEPOKORPI | TERHI PÖLKKI OLA LINEN

LOOK 4: SASU KAUPPI PANELLED TOP | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER SCARF TOWEL

LOOK 5: SASU KAUPPI PANELLED TOP | TERHI PÖLKKI OLA LINEN

LOOK 6: CHRISTOPHER SHANNON PANELLED NYLON SWEATSHIRT | CHRISTOPHER SHANNON PANELLED SHIRT

LOOK 7: KIDDA KEYING SWEATSHIRT | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER SCARF AEROSOL |  CHRISTOPHER SHANNON SHORTS | TERHI PÖLKKI OLA LINEN

LOOK 8: NHU DUONG RHOMBUS JACKET | MINNI F. RONYA SPARKLY JERSEY SKIRT NARCISSUS

Photography: Jussi Manni

Model: Saralotta Engblom

Make-up: Hanne Dahlgren

Hair: Tynius Saari

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You can also see selected lookbook images in our men’s SS13 portfolio in Acolyth e-store here.

STEPHAN SCHNEIDER DRESS VERTICAL

STEPHAN SCHNEIDER TOP CARRARA | ODEUR UNCOVER SWEATPANTS

STEPHAN SCHNEIDER T-CREW KNIT TOP | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER SKIRT TROPICAL

STEPHAN SCHNEIDER BLUE STOLE COATING | ODEUR TOUR KNIT CARDIGAN | ODEUR UNCOVER SWEATPANTS | TERHI PÖLKKI CAYA PUMPS

ODEUR PATTERN KNIT | THE FIRST, THE BEST & THE LAST PRINT T-SHIRT | ODEUR UNCOVER SWEATPANTS | PUMA BY HUSSEIN CHALAYAN URBAN GLIDE

ODEUR SHIRT VEST | ODEUR UNCOVER SWEATPANTS | TERHI PÖLKKI CAYA PUMPS

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON WOVEN SLEEVE SWEATSHIRT | CHRISTOPHER SHANNON TASSELED SHORTS

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON PANELLED NYLON SWEATSHIRT | CHRISTOPHER SHANNON PANELLED SHIRT | ODEUR UNCOVER SWEATPANTS

KIDDA FLAG SWEATSHIRT | PONY BY ANNEA LOUNATVUORI GOLDEN PONY NECKLACE | ANN-SOFIE BACK ZIP SWEATPANTS

DANIEL PALILLO INVASION PRINT T-SHIRT | ODEUR UNISEX LONG JOHNS

DANIEL PALILLO OVERSIZED ZIPPER MOUTH TEE

DANIEL PALILLO ABCD PRINT SLEEVELESS TOP | DANIEL PALILLO FACES PRINT SWEATER | ODEUR UNISEX LONG JOHNS |  PUMA BY HUSSEIN CHALAYAN URBAN GLIDE

NHU DUONG RHOMBUS JACKET | STEPHAN SCHNEIDER SKIRT TROPICAL |  TERHI PÖLKKI CAYA PUMPS

Photography: Jussi Manni

Models: Saralotta Engblom & Justus Kantakoski

Make-up: Hanne Dahlgren

Hair: Tynius Saari

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Odeur, our impresario of minimalist, monotone and understated Swedish style, makes a sober collection of unisex clothing aimed for both men and women for Spring Summer 2013. Odeur is designed by Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger and the SS13 collection is now available at Acolyth e-store in the shape of t-shirts, shirts, knits and sweatpants.

SHOP THE COLLECTION HERE.

ODEUR | TOUR KNIT CARDIGAN BLACK & TOUR KNIT CARDIGAN BURGUNDY

This Tour Knit Cardigan by Odeur has been knitted using several knitting techniques, that have been rhytmically placed around the garment. The cardigan is constructed asymmetrically and the front button stand has been placed diagonally so that the left side of the front overlaps the right side slightly. Both of the front pieces have been placed on the cardigan so that the direction of the knit is vertical, causing the material to drape when worn either open or buttons closed. The sleeve ends and the hem of Tour knit cardigan have been hemmed with a knit rib of the same material.

ODEUR | ASKEW T-SHIRT
This Odeur Askew t-shirt has been made of a burgundy colored light cotton jersey. The large noticeable square shaped print on the front has been made with opaque white. However, the most interesting feature of the t-shirt is the really good fit, which has been accomplished with seams that are cut bias. This is why the back of the t-shirt is slightly longer than the front. Sleeve ends and the hem have been finished with a two-needle cover stitch. The neckline has been finished with a trim of the main material.

ODEUR | PATTERN KNIT
This Pattern knit by Odeur has been knitted with a light black yarn using several different knitting techniques. The main feature of the Pattern knit is the front, where triangular shapes have been knitted on both sides of the chest using a wide knit rib, that is more elastic than the knit on the surrounding areas. The wider rib also continues to the sides and sleeves of the garment, making it all the more elastic. Don’t be fooled by the measurements of this knit pullover, which have been made without stretching the material. The sleeve ends and hem, which has a slight trail in the back, have been finished with a knit rib.

ODEUR | SHEER LONGSLEEVE T-SHIRT
This Odeur longsleeve Sheer t-shirt has been made of a firm cotton tricot and and light cotton rib jersey. The firm tricot has been used on the sides of the shirt in geometrically cut panels that start from the chest and go on to to the sides and the sleeves of the shirt. The cotton rib used on the shirt makes the garment very elastic, so don’t be fooled by the measurements, which have been made without stretching the material. Sleeve ends and neckline have been finished with a cotton rib.

ODEUR | SHIRT VEST
This sleeveless top Shirt Vest has been made of light cotton voile and cotton jersey. This versatile unisex garment can be worn on its own as an overlong top or as a part of a much more varied outfit. The sleeveless top has geometrically shaped panels of cotton jersey on the sides, which makes the garment more elastic on the sides and more comfortable to wear. The long vest also has slits on the sides and center back, which enable easy movement when wearing the piece. The hidden button stand closes above the knee.

ODEUR | UNCOVER SWEATPANTS
These Uncover sweatpants by Odeur have been made of a firm cotton tricot. The most interesting feature of these sweatpants are the rectangular shaped openings under both knees. There are two large pockets on the front that have wide square shaped openings. The waistline and back yoke of the sweatpants have been made using a shiny elastic material that brings contrast into the garment. The waistband has a draw string. The trousers legs of the sweatpants have been finished with rib elastics.

www.acolyth.com

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Terhi Pölkin suunnitteluideologiaan kuuluu olennaisesti skandinaavinen minimalismi, naisellisuus ja käytännöllisyys. Suunnittelijan painopiste on hyvässä designissa ja siinä, miten se on yhdistetty ekologisuuteen ja korkealaatuisiin materiaaleihin. Helsingin myymälässämme ja verkkokaupassamme on Terhi Pölkin sesongittain vaihtuvaa mallistoa, mutta myös pysyvämpää puukenkämallistoa. Kaikki kengät valmistetaan käyttäen ekologista kasvisparkittua vegetan-nahkaa ja kierrätysmateriaaleja. Sesonkituotteet valmistetaan pieninä sarjoina Portugalissa ja puukengät tehdään Suomessa, mikä lisää niiden kestävyysajattelua. Tämä ei ole kuitenkaan syy, miksi Terhi Pölkki -kengät kuuluvat sesongittain valikoimaamme. Meille ne ovat uniikkeja ja laadukkaita kenkiä, joihin hyvän muotoilun lisäksi kuuluva ekologisuus on rikkaus, jonka toivoisimme yhä useammin olevan itsestään selvä asia tuotetta kuin tuotetta suunnitellessa ja toteuttaessa.

Tilaa Terhi Pölkki -kengät verkosta. Näet koko kenkävalikoiman täältä. Tässä ovat kevät-kesä 2013 -malliston pilkkukengät:

TERHI PÖLKKI | CAYA
Terhi Pölkin Caya-korkokenkää ei pidä sekoittaa perinteiseen avokkaaseen. Cayan pilkkukuosinen pellavakangas, jykevä tolppakorko ja korokepohjainen päkiä tekevät siitä ainutlaatuisen kenkämallin. Kengän korko ja kärki ovat mustaa vegetan-nappaa. Cayan pohja on nahkaa. Kengän korossa on kuminen korkolappu.

TERHI PÖLKKI | OSCAR
Terhi Pölkin Oscar-kengässä purjehduskengän ja loaferin ominaisuudet saavat uuden, ainutlaatuisen nykyaikaisen muodon kengässä käytetyn pilkkukuosikankaan ansiosta. Oscar on valmistettu vaaleasta pellavakankaasta ja vegetan-napasta, joka on tavallisin menetelmin parkittua nahkaa ekologisempi vaihtoehto. Oscar-kengän pohja on myös valmistettu nahasta. Kengän pohjassa on kuminen korkolappu.

TERHI PÖLKKI | OLA LINEN
Ola-nilkkuri on Terhi Pölkin kenkämalliston kestosuosikki, ja tällä kertaa se on toteutettu vegetan-napasta ja pellavakankaasta, jolle on painettu musta pilkkukuosi. Kengän etuosaa koristaa on yksi nappanahasta tehty musta nauha. Nilkkurissa on puuvillanauhat. Nilkkurin pohja on nahkaa. Kengän pohjassa on kuminen kantalappu.

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Daniel Palillo SS13 Sailor Bags Are Now In Shop.

We have now put up all of the Daniel Palillo SS13 collection Invasion in the shop and e-store. Our selection of Daniel Palillo SS13 clothing including sweatshirts, t-shirts, hoodies and accessories can now be viewed and shopped here.

We still have some scatter styles in the shop from past seasons on discount, so check those out as well.

Click here to read Daniel Palillo bio. Click here to preview the upcoming Daniel Palillo AW13 collection Wasted Youth.

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